'TIS THE SEASON:
CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS
The New York-based designer talks gift-giving, unexpected inspirations, and his go-to drinks.
Photographed for Platform by Carolina Salazar.
You’re a few collections into showing off of the traditional Fashion Month calendar. Having just debuted your second collection of the year, are you still glad to have stepped a bit back from the circus?
There’s a part of me that does miss presenting work with my peers and sort of collectively saying something about the moment that we're in. But the short answer is yes—what we’re doing now works best for us, and it's nice to have some more time and space. From a sustainability perspective, mostly regarding human resources, it's great that we're not in the fray with everyone else and that we can actually take our time to develop the work in a considered, more realistic way. Both of our collections are pre-season, which gives us an equal amount of time to develop and produce both seasons as opposed to rushing around.
You’ve long emphasized color in your designs. How much does that have to do with your early interest in art?
I would always draw on the walls as a kid, so when a program called Talented Art came to my town of Baton Rouge, my grandmother told my mom that she should get me tested. I got in, so I started learning how to render things from a really young age. I never was a fan of, say, charcoal and pencil, and gray and black and white. I was always really interested in color and color theory. One of the first artists that we learned about was, of course, Picasso, which was kind of my introduction to the idea of color as a concept or feeling. From then on, I kind of saw it as more of an object and have been interested in exploring that as a continual practice. The work of Josef Albers really resonates with me—the way he thought about color, like in his book Interaction of Color.
What do you collect, art or otherwise?
Dries Van Noten, who’s one of my favorite designers, did a collection with Verner Panton a few years back. Any time I see something that's my size, I buy it.
Getting into the winter holidays, do you have any traditions this time of year?
I usually spend either Thanksgiving or Christmas with my family in Louisiana, back home in Baton Rouge and in the town of Mansura, where my dad is from and my grandparents live. It has a really, really small population, so quite a big contrast from New York City. It’s kind of nice to be re-grounded in that way. And then whichever holiday I don’t go back for, I usually spend here in New York with friends, have a friendsgiving or something.
Are you able to actually take a break, or do you find yourself inevitably thinking about work?
I try to take a break and disconnect, but my brain is always turned on. If I happen to see something interesting, I'll take a photo of it and maybe I'll do a little sketch on my phone of what I think it could become. More so than looking at a specific artist or period for a collection, I’m interested in communicating a general feeling. And I look everywhere for references that can help me communicate it—whether it be a painting, a sculpture, a piece of wrapping paper on the street, or a spilt drink.
Do you have any tips for what to wear to a holiday party?
Obviously love sparkle, obviously love shine. Something quite minimal, like a t-shirt, on top, and something more ostentatious and declarative on the bottom (or vice versa) is always really fun. Color-wise, I think non-holiday colors are my favorite during the holidays.
What about tips for hosting a holiday party?
Yes, and they’re simple, since they’re what bring people together: great food and great drinks.
What's your go-to drink?
Anything with Campari, so either a Campari spritz or Negroni. There’s also this grassy non-alcoholic beverage called Seedlip Garden 108—and that with soda and lime? Iconic.
How often do you give your own designs as gifts?
Quite often, actually. Our knitwear is quite popular, so sometimes I make extra during our production run to give to friends and family. And my mom gets whatever she wants, basically. [Laughs.] Honestly, I feel like my parents have sacrificed so much for me to be able to be here. So whenever she's like, I need this, or I want that, I try my best to make it happen.
What’s the best gift you've ever received?
Probably my first sewing machine, which my parents got for me when I was in high school. The mom of one of my peers actually taught sewing classes, so that summer, I learned how to use it and do basic pattern drafting before I even went to college. That was definitely sort of a leg up for me.
What about one of the worst gifts?
Sometimes brands mail me clothes as gifts, but without asking my size. And if it’s too small, I can’t actually use it, you know?
Having tried your hand at Platform’s new Dana Schutz puzzle, what type of person would you give it to?
Someone who enjoys a challenge. The artwork is beautifully macabre, and I think with a bit of patience, they can arrive at something really special and rewarding at the end.
Lastly, do you do your own gift-wrapping?
I sort of have my own answer to it: get a bag, put really pretty paper inside, and make a nice card. And most importantly, make sure the gift in question is as personal as possible. I'm actively trying to be a better, more intentional gift giver—and less of a procrastinator. [Laughs.]